by California Casualty | Helpful Tips, Homeowners Insurance Info |
Those beautiful autumn leaves you’ve been admiring are not so pretty when they’re clogging your gutters. Acorns, leaves, branches, and other debris have a way of piling up, leading to blockages that can cause water damage and costly repairs. Enter gutter guards—a practical solution that keeps debris out while letting rainwater flow freely. Here’s a quick guide to gutter guards, including why autumn is the best time to check and clean your own gutters.
What exactly are gutters?
Gutters are channels along the edge of your roof that direct water away from your home. They include downspouts that bring water down to the ground, moving it at least 5-10 feet away from the foundation. When gutters get clogged, they no longer work the way they should. Water could stay pooled in the channels or move in ways that negatively affect your home. Clogged gutters can lead to expensive problems: soil erosion, basement flooding, structural damage, roof damage, siding damage, and foundation issues. A buildup of debris could also increase the risk of a fire. Luckily, there is an easy way to protect your gutters from getting clogged – gutter guards.
Types of Gutter Guards
There are many different types of gutter guards. Some can be self-installed, and others require a professional. Below is a brief description of the main kinds along with their pros and cons. (Check the warranty on your shingles before you install a gutter guard that requires attaching directly to shingles with screws or nails as that could potentially void it.)
Screen Guards
This is like a window screen for your gutters. The screen keeps out debris while the holes let the water pass through.
Pros: These guards are affordable and can be self-installed.
Cons: Dirt and small debris can still pass through the screen and get in your gutter. These guards need to be removed and cleaned at least once a year.
Micro-mesh Guards
Micro-mesh guards are like screen guards, but with holes that are much tinier. They are particularly good at keeping out pine needles and dirt, which can slip through larger openings. These guards are usually made of stainless steel and other durable materials.
Pros: Micro-mesh guards are low maintenance, and long lasting. They are easy to clean and should be cleaned every 3-12 months.
Cons: They require professional installation.
Reverse-Curve Guards (Surface Tension Guards)
These guards are attached beneath the shingles, and they go over the gutter and curve back a little. The curve creates a hood, so debris doesn’t get into the gutter, but the unique design lets the water seep through.
Pros: These are long-lasting and low maintenance guards.
Cons: Reverse-curve guards require professional installation. They also are highly visible and could affect your home’s aesthetic.
Brush Guards
These guards are made of stiff brushes that point up inside your gutters. The bristles catch debris as the water passes through.
Pros: They are easy to install and remove for cleaning.
Cons: These guards require frequent cleaning. Small debris can get caught in the brushes’ bristles, and these guards can be tough to clean as a result.
Foam Guards
This triangular-shaped foam fits inside your gutter to prevent leaves and other debris from lodging there. It’s usually made from polyurethane and has a spongy texture that allows water to flow through. Some foam guards restrict water flow more than others.
Pros: These are affordable and easy to install. They are good at blocking large debris.
Cons: Small debris can enter through gaps between the foam and gutter walls. The foam also can break and is susceptible to mold due to dampness. These need to be replaced every 1-2 years, depending on weather conditions in your area.
DIY vs. Professional
Should you install your own gutter guards or hire a professional? Here are some things to consider.
Choose DIY gutter guards and install them yourself if:
- You want or need to save money.
- You’re generally handy and comfortable on a ladder.
- Your roof is easy to access.
- You like the choices available for DIY. You can find most at your local home improvement store.
Hire a professional to install your gutter guards if:
- You have the budget for professional installation, and you prefer the convenience.
- You want a warranty to show the installation was done correctly and that will address potential future issues.
- You want a higher quality gutter guard than is available DIY.
- Your roof is unusually steep or is difficult to access.
- You have concerns about doing it yourself.
Before the Installation
The best time to install gutter guards is late summer and early fall. This helps prepare for the large volume of leaves that start coming down during the season. Before the installation, you will want to clean and check your gutters.
Cleaning your gutters is part of fall home maintenance. It helps to ensure that your home is ready for winter storm season and severe weather. Here’s a quick overview of how the process is done.
- Gather your supplies: a bucket for debris, trowel or gutter scoop, garden hose with spray nozzle, latex or waterproof gloves to protect your hands from wet debris, safety eyewear, and a sturdy ladder.
- Start at the downspout. Use your gloved hand or a trowel to remove leaves, twigs and packed material.
- Then go up to roof level on your ladder. Use your gloved hand to clear large debris like leaves or twigs. Use the trowel for compacted debris.
- Remove and clean the downspout strainer.
- Flush the downspout and the gutter with water from your hose.
- Look for leaks, making sure water flows freely through the downspout. You will want to repair any issues before you add gutter guards.
- Inspect your gutter for rust spots or peeling paint which could show signs of deterioration. Again you will want to address any issues and potentially replace those parts before adding the guards.
- Look for mold or mildew near the foundation which could mean water is getting in there. That could signal a larger problem.
Ready to start the project?
Once you have clean gutters without any issues, you are ready to protect them with gutter guards. Measure your gutters so that you will be able to purchase the right length of gutter guards. If you’re doing a DYI installation, make sure to fully read and understand the instructions. Watch tutorials and online customer reviews for a heads up on potential mistakes. Know that installing gutter guards can take anywhere from a couple of hours to a couple of days. If you’re choosing a professional installation, make sure to get several estimates and ask for references to avoid scams.
Your home is your greatest investment. Keep it fully protected for added peace of mind.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
by California Casualty | Helpful Tips, Homeowners Insurance Info |
When it comes to house hunting, preparation is key. Whether you’re a first-time buyer or an experienced one, the right tools can make all the difference. From capturing details to measuring spaces, here’s the gear you need to ensure a smooth and successful search for your new home.
Tape Measure
While you can use an app on your phone to measure a space, it will be less accurate than using a traditional metal tape measure. You can buy one at any hardware or big box store. Before you go house hunting, make sure to measure your furniture so you’ll know whether it will be right for the homes you are touring. For your potential new home, here are some considerations.
- How wide are the door openings? Will your furniture fit through?
- Measure the rooms where you will be bringing furniture. Do you have sufficient space to arrange them the way you’d like?
- Measure the appliance spaces if you are bringing your own washer-dryer, refrigerator, etc. to ensure they will fit.
Camera/Phone and Notepad
You don’t want to rely on photos from the listing. Those are staged. Speak to your agent and ask if you can take photos. You also don’t want to rely on your memory. Use your phone or a notepad to take notes. You also can make quick sketches.
- Jot down things you like and don’t like about each home.
- Sketch out floorplans. Mark locations of windows and doors for future reference.
- Take photos of the house and rooms from different angles.
- Pro tip: Bring along printouts of online listings so you won’t have to write everything down.
A Level
Homes are never completely level. They settle over time. However, you shouldn’t find sloping floors, warped walls or cabinets that do not appear straight. You can buy a pocket level, a measuring tool that shows whether a surface is perfectly parallel.
- These tools typically have a bubble of air suspended in a vial of liquid. When a surface is level, the bubble will be within the guidelines. There are digital and laser levels, too, which are more expensive.
- Place your pocket level along the floor, on counters, or anywhere else that should be a horizontal surface.
- Look for the space between the doors and the floor as they swing out. Is the gap wider at any point?
- Floors that are not level could signal larger structural problems. Do your due diligence if you are buying a home in that condition.
Moisture Meter
Moisture problems aren’t always obvious and can be hidden. Bring along a moisture meter and you can measure the amount within the home. You can buy these meters at a hardware or big box home store. Choose one without pins so that you won’t put holes into a home you might not be buying.
- Moisture meters usually go from 1 (dry) to 100 (wet). Anything at 17 or above is a cause for concern. It could indicate water damage and leaks.
- The moisture meter must contact the surface to provide an accurate reading. There should be no visible moisture on the surface being tested.
- Place your meter flat against a surface such as wood or drywall. Try it in different places as you may find varying moisture levels.
- Pro Tip: Go house hunting after it rains. You’ll see where water collects around the house and in the gutters, and you may observe moisture or leaks inside.
Outlet Tester
This handy tool checks that each contact in the outlet is connected to the correct wire. It can identify several common wiring errors. You can buy a standard receptacle tester that plugs into an outlet or a non-contact voltage tester. Always be careful when performing tests on a live outlet.
- Plug your tester into an outlet. Repeat for several outlets throughout the home.
- A series of lights on your outlet tester will light up. Read the key code to determine what the lights mean. In some cases, an alarm will sound.
- If you do get a concerning reading, that means there are likely issues with the wiring in the house.
- You can use that additional anticipated expense to bring the price down, or you may choose to walk away from the potential problem.
Water Pressure Gauge
With low water pressure, showers and laundry will be longer and more frustrating. Low pressure also could signify a problem with the plumbing. Bring along a water pressure gauge to check out whether this is an issue in your potential purchase.
- If the water comes from a municipal utility, you can use an outdoor hose spigot near where water enters the house. If water is from a well, use a faucet close to the tank.
- For the most accurate reading, make sure water isn’t being used elsewhere in the house, such as with laundry or dishwashers.
- Do not test from a hose. Make sure your pressure gauge screws directly onto the spigot or faucet and that the seal is tight.
- Turn the water on all the way and read the gauge. A normal reading is from 40-80. Anything outside that range is cause for concern.
Flashlight
Even well-lit homes have dark corners and areas that aren’t easily seen. If you’re considering a purchase, you want to see everything—the good and the bad. Bring a pocket-sized flashlight or use the light on your phone to peek into dark areas.
- Look under appliances, in corners, dark basements, etc.
- Look for spiders, mold and any potential problem areas.
- A mirror can help you peek around corners.
- Pro Tip: Bring a UV flashlight and shine it on carpets to reveal places where pets have made messes.
Looking for a new home is an exciting time. Should you have questions about protecting your new investment, don’t hesitate to reach out to an agent for the right policy.
Happy house hunting!
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
by California Casualty | Helpful Tips, Homeowners Insurance Info, Safety |
A home safe is a fortress for your prized possessions and a sanctuary for your peace of mind. In an unpredictable world, a safe might be exactly what you need to protect your valuables. How do you know if one is right for you, and which one do you need? Read on.
Reasons to buy a home safe:
There are many reasons why people buy home safes. These include:
Types of Safes
The reasons that you want a home safe will determine the type of safe that you need. Safes are specially designed with certain features, depending upon their use. Note that you can get safes that combine features such as a burglary safe that is also a fireproof safe. Here are some of the most common types:
Burglary Safe
This type of safe protects your cash and other valuables from being stolen. While no safe is 100% secure, a burglary safe is designed with sturdy material that can withstand attacks by hammers and cutting instruments. Burglary safes are often classified based on the tools and techniques required to break into them. Common burglary ratings include:
- Residential Security Container (RSC): Suitable for residential use, providing basic protection against burglaries.
- TL (Tool Resistant): Indicates resistance against common hand tools like hammers, chisels, and drills.
- TRTL (Torch and Tool Resistant): Resistant to torches and more advanced tools.
- TXTL (Explosive and Tool Resistant): Provides high-level protection against explosives and advanced tools.
Data Safe
A data safe is used to store electronic data such as hard drives, USB sticks, DVDs, film, tapes, and more. These products can be damaged by heat, humidity, dust, and electric/static charges. Not all safes will protect computer media and data. A data safe uses specially insulated material to keep the inner part cooler than traditional safes.
Fireproof Safe
This type of safe protects its contents from heat, fire, and smoke damage. Fireproof safes usually have a thin metal exterior, a middle core made of flame-retardant material, and an inner layer of felt or carpet. However, since the metal on a fireproof safe is typically thin, it can be easily punctured or cut with simple tools. Fireproof safes are tested to see how long they can maintain a certain internal temperature without damaging the contents. Common ratings include:
- 30-minute
- 60-minute
- 90-minute
- 2-hour
- 3-hour
Floor Safe
A floor safe is embedded in the floor, usually in the concrete foundation. Floor safes are great for concealing valuables. They protect well against burglaries and fire. However, in the event of a fire, floor safes often fill with water so you will want to include any contents in waterproof containers. Floor safes also can be expensive and messy to install. You need to install them in a concrete foundation which means the location might be inconvenient.
Gun Safe
A gun safe is ideal for guns and ammunition. These safes can be small enough to fit in a nightstand drawer or larger depending on how many weapons you must store. Many people keep them easily accessible but out of view, so guns are safely tucked away from children, guests, and importantly criminals. Look for a gun safe with a minimum of a 1-hour fireproof rating, a secure locking mechanism, and half-inch or thicker steel.
Jewelry Safe
While you might keep your necklaces, earrings, and bracelets in a jewelry box, you might consider a jewelry safe for higher worth items. After all, jewelry is an easy “grab and go” option for thieves and it’s relatively easy for them to resell precious gems and gold. Jewelry safes often include fabric-lined drawers for organizing your collection. You’ll want to have a burglary safe and fireproof version to keep jewelry from being damaged in the event of a fire.
Wall Safe
These safes are installed in your wall and can be concealed. They’re usually mounted between support beams. You’re limited by size and weight. You don’t want the wall safe to stick out into another wall; nor do you want it too heavy to be held up when attached to drywall and wood studs. While wall safes may be placed in convenient locations, they are less secure than a safe bolted to the floor. A wall safe can be cut out of the wall.
Waterproof Safe
A waterproof safe keeps its contents dry even when the safe is fully submerged in water. While no safe is truly waterproof, there are different water protection ratings. Look for ETL water protection ratings that identify the timing and depth, such as up to 8 inches deep for 24 hours or fully submerged for up to 72 hours. Waterproof safes can help in cases of extreme weather.
Types of Locks
When you buy a safe, not only do you have to consider the body, but the lock that secures it. Following are the different kinds of locks available.
- Key – If you have the key that fits the lock, you gain access. Certain key locks allow you to change keys for times when keys are lost, stolen or if you think they’ve been duplicated.
- Mechanical Combination – Similar to a combination lock that you may have had on your locker or to secure your bike, a mechanical combination lock relies on a dial or wheel that you spin in a certain sequence. The combination locks for safes can have as many as 1 million code variations, and the four-wheel variety can have 100 million code combinations.
- Digital Combination – These combination locks use a keypad rather than a dial to enter your numbers. Codes may be changed as necessary. Digital combination locks rely on batteries, so make sure yours are up to date.
- Dual – A dual key and combination lock gives you the option to use either method to open your safe.
- Biometric – These locks work by scanning your fingerprint, palm print, face, or eye. There’s no need to remember a code or carry a key. They can be set up to store more than one user’s credentials to allow access to several people.
Safes come in many sizes.
You will usually see measurements in cubic feet. To find the interior size of a safe in cubic feet, multiply its height, width, and depth, then divide by 1728. For instance, if a safe is 20” x 15” x 20”, its interior is approximately 3.47 cubic feet. It’s wise to select a slightly larger safe than you initially think you need, as your storage needs may grow over time.
Whether or not you decide to purchase a safe, you can take steps to prevent a burglary. Finally, protect the things inside your home with personal property coverage. This will help ensure your valuables are fully covered.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
by California Casualty | Homeowners Insurance Info, Safety |
It’s relatively easy to break into a garage. Thieves can do it in a matter of seconds, and grab your tools, sports equipment, and other high-value items before you know it. Fortunately, you can take steps to protect your garage from a break-in. Follow these tips to make your garage door more secure.
Tip #1: Light the way.
Thieves lurk in the shadows. Add motion-activated flood lights around your garage. The sudden blaze of light is sure to startle a burglar and could scare him away. It also could alert neighbors or passersby to their activity, which could deter them as well.
Tip #2: Cover your windows.
You probably store high-value items in your garage, including your vehicle. Don’t broadcast that fact to everyone. Use interior curtains or blinds to cover your windows. You also can use an adhesive window film. Windows also are easy to break. Consider garage door windows with panes that are too small to use to enter.
Tip #3: Trim your landscaping.
Make sure there are no bushes near your garage where thieves can hide. You want your neighbors and every passerby to be able to see what’s going on. Pro Tip: Plant thorny shrubs under garage windows to discourage thieves from getting in that way.
Tip #4: Reinforce your service door.
If your garage has a service door that leads to the outside or inside of your home, make sure it’s secure. Most garage service doors can be broken with a well-placed, solid kick. Reinforce your door with a strike plate, using 3-inch screws to secure it.
Tip #5: Add a layer of protection with a lock.
Many garages use keyless locks which open the door with a keypad, fingerprint reader, or remote control. Alternatively, you can use a deadbolt or padlock, which require keys. You can even use a combination of locks, such as a garage door lock bar which stops the door from being raised, in combination with another type of lock for added security. Choose the one(s) that works for your budget and your needs. Pro Tip: Keep the keypad clean. A thief can look at the dirty keys to guess your garage door code.
Tip #6: Update your remotes.
If your garage door remote is old, chances are it is easy to hack. Thieves can use a code grabber that copies your signal. Then they can send it to your garage door to open it. Newer remotes use a rolling code, which slightly changes the signal that your remote sends every time. That’s a good reason to update your garage remotes to a newer model.
Tip #7: Don’t clip your garage remote to your car visor.
It’s like giving thieves a key to your home. They can just break into your car to get your remote. Consider using a smart garage door opener from your smartphone or attach your remote to your keychain so it’s always with you.
Tip #8: Close your garage door.
It may seem simple but sometimes we forget to close our garage doors. Don’t tempt thieves by leaving yours open. Consider an automatic door closer that will shut the door after a specified amount of time. You also may wish to invest in a garage door monitor, which displays whether the garage door is open or closed.
Tip #9: Protect your garage’s emergency release cord.
The emergency release cord is designed to open the garage door in a power outage. Thieves however use it to their advantage. They can push the door inward to create enough of a gap to insert a wire hook. Then they pull down on the cord. There are a few ways that you can protect the cord from this hack. You can pull the cord through a PVC pipe that is too thick and bulky to be pulled by the wire. You can cut the cord very short so thieves cannot easily grab it. You can zip tie it so it cannot be pulled. You can create a door lock shield with a scrap of plywood screwed to the opener’s arm.
Tip #10: Install a security camera.
Security cameras can help deter thieves, especially if they are visible. Make sure that the ones you buy are designed for outdoor use and specifically for the seasonal temperatures in your region. Consider features like motion-activated recording, and WiFi or mobile access via your smartphone or other device. Add a door alarm or security sensor to alert you of a breach. This is especially valuable if you are not home or are on vacation.
Finally, for added peace of mind, you will want to make sure that you fully protect your home with the right coverage. After all, your home is one of your greatest investments.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
by California Casualty | Homeowners Insurance Info |
You packed everything carefully for the move to your new place. But sadly, your mug collection didn’t make it. Who’s at fault and how can you make sure that your belongings are fully covered?
Here’s what you need to know about homeowner’s insurance, what’s covered and what’s not during a move.
First, let’s start at home.
Your homeowner’s or renter’s policy covers your belongings (owned or used by you, the insured) when they are anywhere in the world. You are covered under personal property coverage. If your possessions are stolen, or damaged by fire/smoke or any of 16 named “perils,” your policy will pay for them subject to your deductible. Not everything is a named peril; for example, breakage and missing items do not qualify. Also, there are dollar limits for theft of certain items, such as jewelry and firearms.
You may choose the replacement cost or the actual cash value (ACV) for reimbursement in personal property coverage. ACV is the amount the item is worth, minus depreciation for its age. It will cost a little more for a policy that provides replacement cost since that is higher than ACV.
When does your policy cover a move?
The good news is that both homeowner’s and renter’s policies may provide coverage when you are moving your belongings if you move yourself instead of hiring movers. (Your insurance won’t cover damages when your property is in the possession of a third party, like a moving company.) Importantly, the loss still has to be related to a covered peril. So, if your belongings catch fire, that would fall under covered perils. You could file a claim for reimbursement. Depending on the state and the policy, items in a storage unit damaged by named perils could be covered, but limited to 10% of your coverage C limit.
You will need to get a separate liability policy, such as relocation, trip transit insurance or special perils content coverage. You also can get a floater policy for valuables. For example, you can insure for breakage of art glass windows, glassware, statuary, marble, bric-a-brac, porcelains and similar fragile articles. Your insurer will cover loss by breakage if caused by: (1) fire or lightning; (2) explosion, aircraft or collision; (3) windstorm, earthquake or flood; (4) malicious damage or theft; or (5) derailment or overturn of a conveyance.
Your rental truck contract may provide coverage that includes cargo protection. Your basic auto policy does not extend to renting “trucks” so you will need to purchase additional insurance.
When doesn’t your policy cover a move?
Your homeowner’s or renter’s policy will not cover damage caused by your movers. Nor will it cover items lost by your movers. You’ll have to contract with your moving company for that type of coverage. The coverage that moving companies provide is not technically insurance and not governed by state insurance laws.
The federal government requires movers to offer two types of protection if you’re moving out of state. These include full value protection and released value protection. Full value offers replacement value for your lost or damaged possessions. Released value offers only limited protection. Some movers offer a separate liability coverage through third-party insurance company.
What to do before a move
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- Review your moving contract. Understand what’s covered and what is not.
- Determine the type of coverage you need for your possessions, if any.
- Some circumstances will limit your mover’s liability. For example, if you packed your items, and they are broken enroute, it’s possible you will not get paid even if you purchased their moving coverage. Perishable and hazardous materials also aren’t usually covered.
- Check with your state moving association to know the rules and regulations in your state, or in the state where you are moving.
- Talk to your insurer to know what your homeowner’s or renter’s policy covers, and to make sure that you will have full coverage in your new home.
- Visit the Federal Motor Carrier Safety website for resources and tools to help make it a smooth move.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
