RV Fire Safety and Prevention

RV Fire Safety and Prevention

You’re ready to hit the road in your RV. Whether you’re an experienced RVer or a newcomer to the lifestyle, protecting your vehicle from fire hazards can mean the difference between a dream vacation and a disaster.

As your home on wheels, your RV presents greater fire dangers than a standard vehicle. With features like kitchens and curtains, there are more opportunities for things to go up in flames. There also are electrical and mechanical components that can present a fire risk if not properly maintained. Here’s what you need to know to keep your family safe.

Electrical Systems

RVs use both AC (alternating current) and DC (direct current) power. AC operates your appliances and outlets while DC powers your engine and battery. Solar panels also are gaining popularity and can be configured to provide either AC or DC power.

  • Bumps and vibrations can loosen connections. Check your electrical systems regularly to make sure connections are secure.
  • Check for frayed wires and damaged outlets. Never use wires or outlets that are compromised. Replace as needed.
  • If the circuit breaker shuts off power to a certain circuit, it’s probably overloaded. Other signs include lights that flicker or buzzing noises from outlets and switches. Consult a professional to ensure that you don’t have an overloaded circuit.
  • While power strips are generally safe for small wattage appliances (charging cell phones or table lamps), they may not do well with high wattage. They also cannot handle continuous loads required by space heaters. Power strips can overheat and ignite combustible material in the walls.
  • Don’t cover electric cords with rugs or carpets.
  • Only use extension cords rated for outdoor use. If left out overnight, cords can get wet.
  • If you have an electrically charged fire, don’t use water to extinguish it. Use a fire extinguisher approved for type C fires.

Propane Appliances

Propane commonly powers stoves, refrigerators and water heaters in your RV. It’s an efficient fuel that also can be dangerous if mishandled. Propane leaks can cause fires and explosions.

  • Regularly inspect your propane tanks and lines for leaks or any issues. Do not use tanks and lines that have been damaged.
  • Always store propane tanks in an upright position in a well-ventilated area away from a heat source.
  • Turn off propane-powered appliances when not in use.
  • Make sure propane-powered appliances are off when you are in motion. Gasoline vapor and an open flame are not a good combination. Also, many propane appliances need to be level and roads are not.
  • Get your RV LP-certified. A licensed liquid propane technician can inspect and test your propane system.
  • Consider switching to an induction cooktop and electric fridge to reduce the use of propane.

Cooking Accidents

The small space and low ceilings in most RVs make it more dangerous to cook there than at home. Most RVs use propane stove tops, which can be an added risk.

  • Properly vent fuel-burning appliances. Never operate them in an enclosed space such as a bathroom, bedroom or storage area. Turn on the exhaust fan, open a window, or cook outside.
  • Keep flammable materials away from the cooking area.
  • Never leave cooking appliances unattended while preparing meals.
  • Turn off appliances before leaving the RV.
  • Check and maintain your appliances regularly. Keep them clean; make sure there are no loose or chewed wires.
  • Do not use cooking appliances to heat your RV. That could create a dangerous situation where there’s insufficient oxygen in a small space.

Pro Tip: For curtains, choose natural fabrics (cotton, hemp) which are less flammable than polyester.

Engine & Mechanical

Your RV is not just a home; it’s also a vehicle. That means it’s equally important to keep the engine and mechanical systems well maintained.

  • Check brakes and bearings. Improperly adjusted trailer brakes can overheat. Wheel bearings also can overheat if not properly greased.
  • Make sure there are no leaks. Place a piece of cardboard under the RVs engine for a few nights to see if you have a leak. Repair any engine or transmission leak as soon as possible. Transmission fluid is highly flammable.
  • Check the battery. Most RVs use lead acid batteries which must be ventilated, or they can give off dangerous gasses. Make sure the battery is open to the outside by vent or hose.
  • Trailer chains that are too long can drag on the road and create sparks. Adjust them as needed. Just one spark can cause a fire.
  • Improperly inflated tires can overheat and cause a fire. It also can cause the tire to fail.
  • Exhaust systems can become very hot. If they have contact with flammable dry grass, it could ignite.

Safety Gear

Outfit your RV with the right safety gear so you’re alerted to any potential emergency, and you can act quickly.

  • Place smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors in every sleeping area.
  • Check the alarms and detectors, and switch batteries every spring and fall.
  • Fire extinguishers should be in easy to reach areas, for example near the door. Get one that is rated type A (for wood, plastics, cloth) and type B (for liquid fuel like grease, oil, stove and motor fuel) and type C (for electric fires).
  • Test your emergency exits including windows that can be used as an escape route. Make sure you have at least two ways out and nothing is blocking those paths.

If you smell gas:

  • Extinguish all open flames pilot lights, lamps.
  • Shut off the gas supply.
  • Do not turn on an electrical switch as that can create a spark that causes an explosion.
  • Remember to evacuate first. Call the fire department, and then try to put out the fire.

If you’re renting an RV:

Remember to do your due diligence to make sure your RV is safe.

  • Choose a newer model. Older models of RVs have fewer and less advanced safety measures. Older engines and equipment also are more likely to fail.
  • Ask the last time it was inspected.
  • Look at the fire extinguisher expiration date.
  • Look at the indication lights on the propane system and carbon monoxide system to see that they’re working properly.
  • Check smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.
  • If you suspect an issue, address it before you sign the paperwork.

Finally, if you’re driving your own RV, make sure it is fully protected by insurance for your own peace of mind. Safe travels!

 

This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.

Vehicle Warranty vs. Vehicle Insurance

Vehicle Warranty vs. Vehicle Insurance

When it comes to protecting your vehicle, car insurance and vehicle warranties both play a big role. Knowing the difference between the two can help you make informed decisions about the coverage you need.

Vehicle Warranty

New car warranties

When you buy a new car, you get a factory warranty from the vehicle manufacturer at no additional cost to you. It is a guarantee that the car you bought is in good working order. A vehicle warranty covers replacements or repairs in case a component breaks or fails for a specified period. Typically, there is no deductible with a new car warranty. It covers both the new part and the labor.

A new car warranty generally comes in two parts:

  • Bumper to bumper coverage: This covers repairs to most parts including electronics and air conditioning (for typically 3 years or 36,000 miles).
  • Power train coverage: This covers the engine and transmission (for typically 5 years or 60,000 miles).

Sometimes a manufacturer’s warranty includes a limited corrosion warranty, emissions warranty, tire warranty, hybrid and electric car battery warranty, and roadside assistance. When your warranties expire, you often have the option to purchase an extended warranty.

Used car warranties

You can get warranties for used cars. A limited warranty comes with a certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicle. The cost is rolled into the higher price you will pay for a CPO vehicle. You also may purchase an extended warranty from your car’s manufacturer or a third party for most used cars. The cost of that extended warranty usually depends upon vehicle age, mileage, make and model, coverage level, your deductible, and the warranty provider.

What warranties cover and what they don’t

Warranties protect you against defects in your car’s parts from power windows and the infotainment system to your engine and transmission. They help cover repairs for those parts if they break or fail during the warranty period. Most car warranties are similar in their broad coverages but may differ in the details so check your policy for what is covered.

Warranties do not cover everything. They do not cover routine maintenance like oil changes or tire rotations. They do not cover wear-and-tear parts like brake pads or wiper blades. They do not cover damage from collisions, damage caused by the owner, severe weather, fire, or theft. For the latter, you need vehicle insurance.

Vehicle Insurance

Car insurance is required by law in most states for any car – new or used – that is on the road. This type of insurance pays for damage from a collision, or another covered adverse event such as fire or theft. Auto insurance does more than fix your car. It can help with medical bills for you, your passengers and the people you hit in a collision. It can help pay if the other driver is not insured. It even covers damages when another driver is at the wheel of your car and has an accident because insurance follows the car, not the driver.

What vehicle insurance covers and what it doesn’t

Car insurance policies are made up of different coverages. You choose the types you need from a range of options. Your premium is determined in part by the coverages that you choose.

  • Liability: If you are at fault in an accident, and others are involved, it’s good to have liability coverage. Liability coverage is required by law in most states. It covers you for bodily injury and property damage you cause to others. However, it does not cover any damage to your own vehicle; that’s covered by collision. It also does not cover injury to you and your family; it only covers the people in the other car.
  • Collision: This coverage is if your car is damaged in a collision with another car or an object, such as a fence. Your collision coverage will pay for repairs minus the deductible. Collision coverage is not required unless you’re leasing a car or paying off a loan on a vehicle. However, it may be good to have, especially in the event of an accident.
  • Comprehensive: Comprehensive coverage is for natural disasters, fires, vandalism, theft and animals that damage your vehicle. Think of it as “bad luck coverage.” Comprehensive coverage is not usually required unless you’re leasing a vehicle or paying a car loan. However, it’s valuable to protect your car.
  • Medical expenses: If you or others are hurt in an accident, you will want medical expenses covered. You will either be able to get medical payments coverage or personal injury protection (PIP). These coverages apply to everyone in your car whether or not you are at fault in the accident. This type of coverage is good to have, as your health insurance may not cover auto accidents and does not normally protect your passengers. PIP is only available in some states and may be mandatory if your state offers it.
  • Uninsured or underinsured motorist: You may encounter drivers who are not insured or who are underinsured. If so, you will need insurance to cover your car and the people in your car if hit by an at-fault driver in that situation. Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist Property Damage (UMPD) helps pay for repairs to your vehicle. Uninsured/Underinsured Bodily Injury coverage pays for medical treatment, lost wages, pain and suffering for you and your passengers. These are optional coverages in most states. In some states, you are not allowed to carry collision and UMPD at the same time. Also, sometimes UMPD has a policy maximum, or cap on the amount it will pay.

Talk to your insurance agent to see what is covered under your policy. That way you’ll be fully prepared should anything happen. Safe travels.

 

This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.

To Sell or Trade-In My Car?

To Sell or Trade-In My Car?

You’re ready for a new car. That means you’ll have to decide what to do with your old one. Either you’ll want to sell your car or trade it at the dealer. Ultimately, the choice comes down to what matters most to you—getting top dollar for your vehicle or taking care of it quickly and easily. Here’s what you need to know.

Trading in Your Car

When you give your vehicle to a dealership in exchange for a credit toward a new car, that is a trade-in. Dealers take your used car and resell it, so that means you won’t get exactly what it’s worth. You’ll be offered a little less. Trade-ins work best with lower mileage cars. Cars over 100,000 miles cannot be re-sold by dealers as certified used cars.

Advantages

    • Trade-ins are convenient and require minimum time and effort from you.
    • Car dealers may be less picky about the car’s condition than an individual buyer.
    • Dealers will handle all the necessary paperwork.
    • You will have a credit to apply to a new car.
    • You also might save on taxes. While some states tax buyers on the value of a new car, others tax you on the value, minus the trade-in.

Disadvantages

    • You may not get as much money for a trade-in, as if you sold your car privately.
    • If your car is old and has high mileage, the dealership may not want it or may offer a less-than satisfactory value.

Tips for Trading

    • Don’t trade in a car for less money than you owe on it. You are still responsible for paying the lease in full.
    • Having your original paperwork will make the trade-in process easier.
    • Do your research and find your potential trade-in value.
    • Check with multiple dealers to see if there is a difference in trade-in value.
    • Don’t be afraid to walk away from the deal if you don’t get your price.

Selling Your Car

If you have the time, you can sell your car privately. You can generally get more money for a private sale, but it’s a lot more work. You will need to take photos of your vehicle, write an ad and post it, and then answer all the people who are interested. You also may need to negotiate for the price you want. Generally, selling independently works well if you have a car that’s high in demand, and if you are comfortable with the sales process.

Advantages

    • You will probably get a better price than at the dealer.
    • There are lots of online sites where you can post your car.
    • If you sell your vehicle online, escrow services can help coordinate the sale while protecting both parties.

Disadvantages

    • It takes a lot of time to sell a car. You may not be able to sell your old car before you buy your new car.
    • It takes a lot of work to sell a car. You must create the ad and publicize the sale either online or locally with a sign on your car displayed in a prominent place.
    • You will be responsible for any accidents that potential buyers cause in your car. That’s because insurance follows the car not the driver.
    • You can put yourself in a risky situation with the exchange of funds. A bank check or direct wire might be best. You can also do the transaction in the parking lot of a police station.
    • You must do the paperwork. This includes creating a bill of sale and making sure that the title is transferred correctly.

Tips for Selling

    • Clean your car and remove bumper stickers.
    • Take professional looking photos.
    • Research the right asking price.
    • Make any necessary repairs.
    • Be honest in your ad.
    • Advertise on safe sites.
    • Potential buyers will want to do test drives. You will need to make sure they will not drive away with your car. Take a picture of the buyer’s driver’s license.

Beware of Car Selling Scams

  • Car Sale Phishing: Scammers that pose as customers can steal your private information. In this scam, they ask for extra verification to get as much information about you as they can. They then use it to set up credit cards, access your bank accounts, or steal your identity.
  • Confirmed Buyer: You may get a notification from an online site that you have a confirmed buyer. The email will request a finder’s fee before releasing the information. Usually they include a money-back guarantee, which is also fake. You end up being out the money.
  • Fake Escrow: The buyer sets up a fake escrow account to hold funds until the vehicle is purchased. They will link to your bank account and steal your information and often, your money.
  • PayPal Scam: The buyer will need your car quickly because of a transportation issue, and likely not haggle over price. They will say they can only pay via PayPal. They will send you an email from PayPal saying that the payment is awaiting approval to be released and ask you for a shipping fee. Once you send the payment, the buyer disappears and you’re out several thousand dollars.
  • Payment Plan: The buyer will offer you a price above market value with a decent amount of interest to pay the car off over time. They’ll make the first payment and then you’ll never hear from them again.

Whether you sell or trade-in your vehicle, take precautions to do it safely. Your car is one of your greatest investments. Protect it with the right policy for added peace of mind.

 

This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.

Car Insurance Fraud

Car Insurance Fraud

It never feels good to fall victim to a scam or pay more for a product because of it. That’s what it is like with car insurance fraud.

Car insurance fraud happens when someone lies to get a better rate or a larger payout. It could be intentional or accidental, but either way it can cost you money in premiums. The FBI estimates that car insurance fraud costs the average family an additional $400 to $700 every year. In addition, nearly 7 in 10 consumers are tricked into illegal schemes, according to the Coalition Against Insurance Fraud. Here’s what you need to know about car insurance fraud, including some clever scams that could catch you unaware.

What are the types of fraud?

Staged Accidents

In staged accidents, dishonest people intentionally cause a collision with an unsuspecting driver. Then they misrepresent the situation, putting the other driver at fault—and thus get a payout that they don’t deserve. Common scenarios for staged accidents include:

          • Two vehicles trap your car and force you into a rear end collision.
          • Someone waves you on that it is safe to pull out, and then another car collides with you.
          • You are tricked into turning early and the oncoming driver moves forward and collides with you.
          • Another car purposefully sideswipes your vehicle in a dual left turn intersection.
          • A car deliberately and abruptly brakes in front of you.

Injury Fraud

Dishonest people can file claims for unnecessary medical treatments or for treatments that they did not receive. Injury fraud also includes claims where people exaggerate the extent of their injury to get a bigger payout.

Exaggerated Claims

Sometimes after an accident, a dishonest person can cause additional damage to their vehicle to receive a bigger payout. That’s why taking photos of the damage is so important to do at the scene of the accident. Another exaggerated claim could be to file multiple claims for the same accident. Finally, disreputable shops can charge for repairs that weren’t made or for substandard work.

Counterfeit Airbags

If you have your airbag replaced by a dishonest shop, you might be charged for the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) bag but get a counterfeit one installed. In a worst-case scenario, a disreputable shop could install a garbage bag stuffed with rags. Counterfeit bags are dangerous and may not protect you in the event of an accident. The good news is that it’s easy to check. With an airbag, the light on your dashboard will flash when you start the car. You can also ask an authorized dealer to check that you have a quality airbag.

Windshield Replacement Scams

There are a variety of different scams associated with windshield replacement. Here are some of the most popular.

          • A stranger approaches you in a parking lot and offers a free windshield replacement. They point out nonexistent damage that can be fixed. They take your insurance information and file an exaggerated or false claim.
          • Windshield scam artists also could go door-to-door or call you with a “special” for customers in your area. Then they follow a similar process of filing a false claim.
          • If you live in one of the states that has no deductible for windshield replacement, con artists can file a claim for your windshield and charge you for the deductible.

Tow Truck Scams

Tow trucks that appear right after your accident could be “bandits” who will only tow your vehicle to their shop and charge you hundreds to repair and release it. Calling your own tow truck will help you to avoid this scam.

False Reports of Stolen Vehicles

Reporting a vehicle that hasn’t really been stolen as stolen is illegal. So is misrepresenting the value of a stolen vehicle.

False Documentation

Intentionally providing a false address for your policy to get a better rate is a form of fraud. Understating the annual mileage, misrepresenting the use of a commercial vehicle, and failing to add a new driver also is fraud.

What are the consequences of fraud?

It depends on the seriousness of the fraud. For minor infractions, your claim can simply be denied. For more serious offenses, your policy may be canceled, you could be fined or even serve jail time. A misdemeanor for auto insurance fraud can come with a fine and probation. A felony conviction can result in significant fines and prison time.

How can you fight against fraud?

  • Carefully check your insurance application forms for mistakes.
  • If you’re in an accident, take good notes of all those involved. Take pictures at the scene. Don’t sign any documents or agree to any terms at the scene of the accident.
  • Don’t accept fault for an accident if you believe you are not at fault.
  • Be wary of individuals offering services that you didn’t request. Avoid sharing details about your auto policy with those who may be disreputable.
  • Don’t tailgate. This gives criminals a chance to take advantage.
  • If your car needs repairs or maintenance, go to a trusted professional.
  • Don’t accept a windshield replacement offer.
  • Choose OEM parts for vehicle repairs to avoid counterfeits. Before buying a used car, have a certified mechanic check that there are authentic air bags.
  • Avoid rushed decisions. If someone is pressuring you into something, that could be a red flag.

If you suspect fraud, report it to your insurer as well as to the National Insurance Crime Bureau at 800-835-6422 https://www.nicb.org/.

 

This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.

Fire Pit Safety

Fire Pit Safety

It’s a beautiful night to sit around the fire pit. The flicker of the flames and the crackling of the fire create the perfect backdrop for relaxation and conversation. Yet the scene can quickly turn dangerous without the right precautions.

Each year, fire pits send thousands of people to the emergency room. Young children and pets are especially vulnerable. Fire pits can also pose a significant fire hazard for your property, igniting leaves and grass, wooden structures and even your home. Follow these 10 fire pit safety tips to help keep everyone and everything safe.

1. Choose the right location.

Place your fire pit at least 10 to 20 feet away from other structures. Keep it away from low hanging branches above. There should be a minimum of 12 feet between your fire pit and tree branches. Never set up below power lines or string lights, which can create immediate danger if sparks fly. Don’t put your fire pit under a building overhang or in an enclosed area. That could cause a buildup of smoke, carbon monoxide and harmful gases that can be deadly.

2. Select a safe, stable surface.

Avoid putting your fire pit directly on the grass or on a wood deck. Instead place your pit on brick, concrete pavers, gravel or sand. Alternatively, you can buy pit pads and heat shields for underneath your pit, as well as pedestals. Surround your pit with crushed stone, sand or brick for added protection.

3. Choose the right fuel.

Soft woods like pine burn less efficiently, and spark more. It’s better to buy seasoned hardwood kindling and logs. You also could use fallen branches from trees in your yard. Do not, however, use construction lumber like pressure treated wood, plywood or chemically treated pallets. These woods will emit toxic fumes when they burn. So will trash and plastic. Never start a fire with lighter fluid or gasoline; that will create a burst of flames and can even release toxic gas or cause an explosion. Don’t throw leaves into the fire. They are light and can be carried by the wind. Finally, when tending to the fire, make sure your sleeves are rolled up and your hair is tied back. Use heat-proof gloves, a metal fire poker or safe long handled tongs.

4.  Check the wind conditions.

Don’t use your fire pit on windy days. Wind can easily blow sparks around to surrounding brush. Use a screen to contain sparks and large embers. If your fire pit is portable, place it in a location with a natural windbreak before you start the fire. Always heed “no burn” alerts from your local municipality. If they say conditions are unsafe for a fire, it’s too risky to chance it.

5.  Keep chairs far enough away.

Carefully place your seats around the fire pit. If you’re too close, your hair or clothes could catch fire. Stay 3-4 feet away from wood burning fires and 2-3 feet away from gas fires. Keep children 3-10 feet away from the flames. If a light breeze is blowing, have guests sit upwind so they can keep clear of the smoke.

6.  Supervise children and pets.

Children and pets don’t understand the dangers of fires. They are naturally curious. Teach children the rules about not touching the fire or fire pit and not throwing things into it. Make sure they stay sufficiently away and remind them if they venture closer. Consider barriers or designated areas for both children and pets. Make sure there is a responsible adult who always has eyes on them.

7.  Drink responsibly.

Fire and alcohol are not a good combination. Alcohol is highly flammable, and overindulgence can affect our judgment, coordination, and reflexes. If you are going to serve alcohol around the fire pit, have a designated nondrinker overseeing the flames. Keep everyone a safe distance away. You also may consider a smokeless fire pit which could add a layer of safety.Never leave a fire unattended. Extinguish it completely when you are done.

8.  Never leave a fire unattended. Extinguish it completely when you are done.

Sparks can fly and fire emergencies can happen in an instant. If you must leave the area, designate a deputy to watch over your fire pit. Remember that fires are “live” for long after they seem to stop burning. Almost extinguished fires with hot ash and hidden embers have been known to cause plenty of damage. Make sure to put out the fire completely before leaving it. Pour water over live embers. Turn the logs to make sure all sides have stopped burning. Check the fire pit the next day just in case. Hover your hand over the ashes to make sure they are not still radiating heat. When it is safe to do so, use a metal shovel to dispose of ashes in a metal pail or trash can. Then wet the ashes by slowing pouring water over them.

9.  Be prepared to extinguish a fire in an emergency.

Always keep a shovel, dirt/sand, and water on hand in case of an emergency. You can smother the flames by piling dirt or sand on them. You can spray water from your garden hose but don’t use a focused stream which can spread embers. Also check your manual to see if your firepit is made from a material that is water safe and won’t rust or crack. You may want to invest in a fire blanket which can be used to smother a fire. A multipurpose fire extinguisher can be used as a last resort.

10.  Check your local regulations.

Some municipalities require you to get a permit for your fire pit. Due to the fire risk, some homeowners’ associations (HOAs) don’t allow fire pits. Others require an onsite inspection from a local fire official. Do your homework and find out the local rules so that you can follow them.

Finally, protect your home with the right insurance. Accidents happen despite our best precautions. Make sure you have enough coverage in the event of a fire.

 

This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.

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