Flooding is one of the costliest natural disasters in the United States, with the potential to impact millions of homes and communities. While FEMA and other agencies provide flood maps to help homeowners understand their risk levels, many of these maps are outdated, leading to a false sense of security for people who live in areas not designated as high-risk. Floods, however, aren’t limited to high-risk zones; even areas classified as low-risk are vulnerable under certain conditions. For these reasons, it’s vital to consider flood insurance no matter where you live.
Outdated Flood Maps and the Misleading Risk of Flooding
Flood maps are designed to inform residents and local authorities about the likelihood of flooding based on historical data, topography, and other factors. FEMA’s maps, for instance, divide areas into high, moderate, and low-risk zones, which guide flood insurance requirements and building regulations. However, some flood maps haven’t been updated for years and many don’t accurately reflect changes in land use, climate patterns, or new developments, which can significantly alter flood risks.
Changes to flood risks include:
Urban Expansion: As cities and towns expand, natural land is replaced with pavement and buildings, which leads to increased runoff and reduced soil absorption. Areas previously considered low risk might become more prone to flooding as water has fewer places to go.
Climate Change and Extreme Weather: Flood maps are based on historical data and often don’t account for the increasing frequency and intensity of extreme weather events that can result in both droughts and unprecedented rainstorms, often within the same year. In areas affected by wildfires where vegetation loss reduces soil stability, runoff increases. Outdated flood maps may fail to reflect these climate driven impacts, leading many property owners to underestimate their exposure.
Erosion and Infrastructure Changes: Natural factors like erosion, as well as human-made infrastructure changes, can impact flood patterns over time. Rivers shift, drainage systems get updated, and dams or levees are added or removed—all of which can alter the flow of water and increase the risk in areas thought to be safe.
The Risks of Flooding in “Low-Risk” Areas
Approximately 40% of flood insurance claims in the U.S. come from properties located outside designated high-risk flood zones. Many low-risk or moderate-risk areas are prone to what is known as “flash flooding” from sudden, heavy rainfall or overflowing drainage systems that cannot keep up. Recent flooding incidents in areas far from coastlines or rivers illustrate how floodwaters can impact anyone, anywhere.
Causes of flooding in low-risk areas include:
Heavy Rainfall: Even a few hours of intense rain can lead to flash flooding, especially in areas with inadequate drainage or impermeable surfaces like concrete. Low-risk flood zones can still see significant flooding from strong, localized storms.
Snow Melt and Frozen Ground: In colder climates, rapid snowmelt or rain on frozen ground can lead to significant runoff, overwhelming waterways and drainage systems even in low-risk flood areas.
Infrastructure Failures: Overflowing sewer systems, clogged drainage, or burst water mains can also lead to localized flooding, impacting areas that flood maps don’t highlight.
Because low-risk zones are not usually required to have flood insurance, many homeowners assume they’re safe. Unfortunately, without a flood-specific insurance policy, any flood damage may need to be covered out-of-pocket, which can lead to devastating financial loss.
Why Flood Insurance Is Essential, Even Outside High-Risk Areas
Given the limitations of flood maps and the growing risk of unexpected flooding, flood insurance is a wise investment for all homeowners. Standard homeowner insurance policies typically do not cover flood damage, so without flood insurance, homeowners face the full financial impact of repairs, replacement of belongings, and sometimes even temporary housing costs.
Here are several reasons to consider flood insurance regardless of risk classification:
Affordable Coverage in Low-Risk Areas: In areas considered low- to moderate-risk, flood insurance premiums are often lower than in high-risk zones. This makes it possible to secure essential coverage without significant cost.
Financial Protection: The cost of even minor flooding can add up quickly. Carpets, drywall, and flooring may need to be replaced, and waterlogged appliances or furniture might be beyond repair. Flood insurance helps cover these costs, sparing you from paying out of pocket.
Home Value and Mortgage Requirements: While most mortgage lenders don’t require flood insurance in low-risk areas, opting for coverage can help protect your home’s value by making it easier to get it back to pre-flood condition.
Adaptability to Climate Change: As weather patterns continue to change, so does the risk of flooding. Flood insurance ensures that you are protected no matter what nature brings, providing adaptable protection in an unpredictable environment.
Taking a Proactive Approach to Flood Protection
Beyond purchasing flood insurance, you can take steps to protect your property from potential flooding:
Upgrade Drainage Systems: Make sure gutters and downspouts are clear and well-maintained to help direct rainwater away from your home.
Install Sump Pumps or Flood Barriers: For homes with basements, sump pumps can be a lifesaver in the event of heavy rain. Flood barriers can also be installed around doors and windows for additional protection.
Regular Property Checks: Monitoring your property for pooling water and ensuring nearby storm drains are clear can help reduce localized flooding.
Outdated flood maps and assumptions about risk can lead to costly surprises for homeowners. While flood insurance may seem unnecessary in low-risk areas, recent floods across unexpected locations show that no one is entirely safe from flood risks. By securing flood insurance and taking proactive protective measures, you can shield your finances and assets from unforeseen disasters – and be prepared no matter what the flood maps say.
If you’re interested in learning more or getting a flood insurance quote, the California Casualty Agency Services team can help. Call 1.877.652.2638 or visit https://www.calcas.com/flood-insurance.
Your garage might be your go-to spot for stashing everything from holiday decorations to that old treadmill, but not everything is garage-friendly. What should you keep there and what should you avoid storing? Here’s a quick guide so you can ensure your belongings and your home stay safe.
Garage-Friendly
Unlike your house, your garage is not climate controlled. Temperatures fluctuate from very hot to very cold, depending on the weather outside. It can also get damp in your garage if humidity is high. Plus, there are critters – from mice to bugs – who can make their home there, even in the most well-kept spaces. That’s why it’s important to store items in your garage that can withstand temperature swings, humidity, and the occasional visits from pests.
Here are some items that work well for garage storage:
Lawn care equipment: Go ahead and store your lawnmower, your leaf blower, your edger and spreader. Landscaping tools benefit from inside storage, away from the weather.
Gardening supplies: Bags of soil and fertilizer, rakes, shovels, flowerpots, buckets, and hoses are well suited for the garage.
Patio furniture and lawn chairs: Store beach chairs and outdoor furnishings during the off-season. It protects them from winter weather damage.
Bicycles and scooters: Garage storage will help prolong the life of bikes and scooters which can rust. Garages also protect from potential theft of these items. Avoid storing anything with lithium batteries. Not only will the extreme temperatures reduce their lifespan, but these batteries can also pose a fire risk.
Sports equipment: Store your outdoor and indoor sporting equipment, from skis to kayaks to basketballs. Consider wall-mounted racks to keep them off the ground and away from pests.
Camping supplies: Your tent, head lamps, and camping chairs also are well suited to garage storage. Clean them before you store them; you don’t want to bring the woods into your garage.
Pool equipment: Garages are great for swimming pool equipment like floats, skimmers and pool vacuums. However, pool chemicals need a cool, dry, ventilated place so move those elsewhere.
Holiday decorations: These work for the garage if they are in airtight containers on shelves or pallets, so they’re not affected by moisture damage. But it’s better to store your holiday extension cords inside your home.
Vehicles: Your garage is made for your car, truck, motorcycle, or ATV to keep it protected. That of course is the ideal use for this space.
Pro Tip: When choosing storage containers for the garage, select airtight plastic bins rather than cardboard boxes. They are less likely to be chewed through or affected if they get wet. For added protection, add moisture absorbers (known as desiccants) in the bin.
Not for the Garage
The general rule is that if you couldn’t bear to see something lost or destroyed, it should not be in the garage. Also, you don’t want to store anything that would be affected by a garage’s fluctuating temperatures and humidity, that potentially could cause a fire.
Here are some items that should be moved out of the garage to a safer storage spot:
Fuel and chemicals: Avoid storing gasoline, gas cans, propane tanks, and cleaning chemicals in the garage. Not only could these items emit toxic fumes if not properly stored, but they also present a fire risk, and could be set off with a spark, such as from your car’s ignition.
Paint: Paint needs a cool, dry place. It doesn’t do well in extreme heat and cold or humidity. Improper storage can change a paint’s formula.
Furniture: Wood is a porous material that expands and contracts with humidity. It can swell and shrink to the point of cracking. Pests and rodents also can nest in upholstery. If the garage is your only option for furniture storage, make sure your items are in a clean, dry spot that is elevated. Also make sure that they are wrapped and covered.
Sleeping bags and bedding: Humidity can make fabrics moldy. Rodents may nest in it or chew it. It’s tempting to put your sleeping bags with other camping supplies in the garage, but instead, move them inside your home.
Clothing: Clothing can soak up fumes and dust in a garage and be at the risk of pests. Clothes also attract moths. In addition, fur and leather don’t hold up when in damp conditions. It’s best to store your clothes inside your home.
Stuffed animals: These favorite toys can attract dust mites, insects, and mice. If you do store them in a garage, make sure they are in an airtight container.
Rugs and carpets: These make great homes for mice and insects. The fibers also absorb moisture and odor which can stay with them if left for a long enough time.
Food: Not only will food attract pests, but it will also spoil more quickly in temperature extremes. Even canned food is susceptible. In addition, humidity can cause cans and metal lids to rust. That can potentially trigger a chemical reaction with the food inside.
Electronics: Moisture can damage hardware and cause electronics to short out. Damaged electronics can pose a risk of electrocution.
Fragile and Valuable: Heat, cold and moisture can ruin photos, artwork and cause them to curl or fade. Store them in climate-controlled areas in acid-free boxes.
Vinyl records: Grooves can hold moisture and get mildew damage. Record sleeves made of paper can rot, become moldy or be eaten by pests. Vinyl records can also warp or melt in the heat. CDs and DVDs can warp, too, so it’s best to put your music and movie collection elsewhere.
Wine: Changing temperatures and humidity can alter the taste and quality of wine.
Books: Silverfish love to eat the glue that binds books together. They also like paper. They are known to do well in dark, damp environments. The humid environment that’s ideal for pests will also cause pages of your book to curl.
Firewood: Bringing firewood into the garage invites the pests that like to live in piles of wood outside. The general rule is to keep wood at least 20 feet away from your home, including your garage.
You want your belongings to stay safe. That’s why you protect them with personal property coverage. For more information on personal property coverage, common insurance purchasing mistakes, or setting up the right coverage for your home, contact a California Casualty representative.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
The car ahead suddenly collides with another vehicle, forcing you to brake hard to avoid the crash. Your heart races, adrenaline kicks in, and as the dust settles, you realize you’re not just a passerby—you’re a witness. But what happens next? Knowing your role in that critical moment can make all the difference.
While it’s not a legal requirement to stop at the scene of an accident, many people do. As a witness, you’re often the first to arrive and can play a crucial role in calling for help. You may also provide key information that helps clarify what happened and determine liability. If you witness an accident, here are the steps to follow.
Find a place on the side of the road near the accident that is about 100 feet away. Stay
away from broken glass, leaked fuel, downed power lines, and other hazards. You don’t want to put yourself or your car in danger. Once you’ve parked, shut off your car and put on your flashers.
2. Call 9-1-1.
Don’t assume someone else is doing it—unless you see and hear them doing it. Notify the police about the accident, which can be more serious than it looks. Be prepared to give your location. Look for the nearest cross street, a mile marker, or nearest off ramp. The operator will ask how many people need help, and if they are conscious, breathing, or bleeding. Now is the time to step out of your car to check.
3. Exit safely if you can.
Only leave your vehicle if it is safe to do so. Be careful of cars whizzing by and of debris on the road, including broken glass and twisted metal. Be aware of smoke, odd smells or fluids that could signal a potential fire danger. Your safety is your priority.
4. Offer comfort and, if needed, first aid.
Approach the vehicles with the accident victims. Ask if they are okay. Let them know that first responders are on their way. Importantly, do not move an injured individual unless there is an immediate danger of fire. You can bind wounds and stanch bleeding; ask the 9-1-1 operator for direction if you’re unsure.
5. Stabilize the scene.
Make sure all vehicles are in park and turned off. If cars are still on, and fuel is leaking, that could cause a fire. If you need to, and if you can, move the damaged car off the road. Otherwise, set up warning flares (only if there are no fuel leaks) or traffic triangles. You can keep these in your trunk for just this purpose.
6. Document the accident.
The victims may not be able to take photos of the crash. Go ahead and do so and add notes so you will remember what happened. Get contact information so you can get the pictures to the people involved in the accident. Pay special attention if it was a hit and run. Any details you remember could help police track down that car.
7. Talk to the police.
When the police arrive on the scene, they will want to talk with you. Simply share the facts. Don’t speculate on fault if you are unsure who caused the accident. Do not feel pressured to answer every question and do not guess at the answers. “I’m not sure” and “I don’t know” are valid responses. It’s possible that you may be called to testify in a court of law. Don’t ignore a subpoena if you get one. That is against the law, and you could be fined or go to jail.
Some final thoughts…
Witnessing any kind of accident is upsetting. Seeing a fatal accident can be traumatic. Make sure to talk to your pastor, doctor or a therapist to help process the experience.
Did you see the accident occur or did you come by after it happened? If you didn’t see it, then you’re not a witness. You can still stop and help but let the police know that you do not have any information on the crash.
Finally, make sure your own vehicle is protected with the right insurance. This will help add peace of mind if you should get in an accident.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
It’s the perfect time of year to open the windows and enjoy the fresh air. Yet open windows can be a hidden danger for kids. It’s easier than you may think for young ones to slip through and fall. Fortunately, window accidents are preventable with the right safety measures. This season, keep your home and windows secure for your little ones.
What makes windows dangerous?
Children are naturally curious. They like to climb and explore. Window screens are designed to keep bugs out, but not hold children in. Even a small child has the strength to push out a screen. Children under the age of 5 are especially at risk if this happens. Their heads make up a larger percentage of their bodies as compared to adults, so they are likely to fall headfirst.
Some windows are more enticing or easier to access for young kids:
Windows with deep windowsills or built-in window seats
Windows that overlook a play area or place of interest to a child
Windows that are near furnishings where children can climb to reach them
Windows that do not have safeguards and do not lock
Types of Windows
You want to be concerned about any type of window that can open.
Single hung windows have a bottom sash that opens.
Double hung windows have bottom and top sashes that open.
Bay windows often have side angled panels that can open.
Casement windows swing open to the side, often using a hand crank.
Awning windows swing up in a similar way to casement vehicles.
Horizontal sliding windows open by sliding to the side.
Picture windows generally do not open.
Window Safety Devices
You can buy safety devices that limit or block window openings at your local hardware or home store and online. Look for ones that are compliant with ASTM International specifications. ASTM stands for the American Society for Testing and Materials, and it establishes standards for a wide range of products, including window fall prevention devices. Place these devices on every window that can open, including first floor windows. That still can be a significant fall for a young child.
Window Guards
Window guards block the opening of a window. There are two basic kinds, each of which needs to be properly fitted.
Fall prevention window guards use closely spaced bars that are secured to the window frame. Made of durable material such as steel, these guards may be installed with screws or bolts. They usually have a release mechanism for quick access to disable them.
Fall prevention screens are different from standard window screens that protect from bugs. These screens are designed to withstand as much as 60 lbs. of pressure or more.
Window Stops
Window stops restrict windows from opening fully. Make sure to set them so windows open a maximum of 4 inches.
Pro Tip: Once you install a safety device, practice removing it, so you’ll know how to do so if you need to exit via the window in an emergency.
Window Cords
Young children also can be entangled and strangled by window cords. Remove the cords or keep them well out of reach.
Retrofit old cords with cord stops or cut looped cords and replace with tassel ends.
Switch to cordless blinds for your window treatments.
Other Window Safety Tips
Close and lock windows when an adult is not in the room to supervise.
If you have windows that can open at the bottom and the top, open them only at the top to help prevent falls.
Move furniture and cribs away from windows so kids cannot climb on them. Make sure that furniture is a minimum of 3 feet from windows.
Keep your eyes on children when the windows are open. Make sure they do not get too close.
Teach children not to play near windows, not to lean on windows, and to always ask permission before opening a window.
Regularly inspect and repair broken windows as soon as possible.
If you have a hard surface outside underneath your windows, consider adding soft grass, bushes or other landscaping that could cushion a fall. This could ultimately help to lessen an injury.
Open, unsecured windows can also be a danger to pets. Keep your fur babies safely away from open windows and balconies.
Discuss window safety with your child’s daycare, babysitter and family members. Make sure everyone is aware of the safety precautions to take.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
There are four things standing between you and the pavement when you drive—your tires. Keeping them in good shape is key to staying safe on the road. Whether you’re gearing up for a long drive or just your daily commute, knowing how to check your tire pressure is a small step that can make a big difference.
That’s because the right tire pressure can have some far-reaching impacts:
If you drive a passenger car, your tire pressure is likely between 32 to 35 pounds per square inch (psi). SUVs and trucks require a higher psi. Here’s how to find the exact number:
Open your driver’s side door.
Look along the doorjamb for a sticker. It should display the pressure (including whether you need specific pressures for front and rear tires and your spare).
You can also find the recommended pressure in your owner’s manual.
Importantly, do not go by the number that is on the sidewall of your tires. That is the maximum pressure allowed.
Dangers of Overinflating or Underinflating Tires
You want the right amount of pressure in your tires, not too much and not too little.
Overinflating causes the center of the tire’s tread to wear faster. It also decreases traction and your tire’s ability to absorb impacts.
Underinflating causes the outer edges to wear faster. Your car may pull or drift to the side.
Both overinflation and underinflation cause uneven wear, which reduces your tires’ lifespan. At the very least, it will require you to purchase a new set sooner than normal; at the worst, it could cause a
Start with the Right Tools
Now that you know the basics about tire pressure, you’ll want to gather the right tools. You need a tire pressure gauge to start. While you could use one built into an air machine at a gas station, those aren’t always the most accurate. It’s always good to have your own, which you can use at home and anywhere. You can purchase a gauge at an auto supply or hardware store. You will likely have a choice of three kinds:
Stick gauge: Usually the most inexpensive option, this type of gauge resembles a pen. It has a small bar that pushes out to show the reading.
Dial gauge: This type of gauge has a round dial that looks like a clock face or compass. The needle will stop at the number to show the reading.
Digital gauge: This gauge has an LCD display showing the pressure in numbers. However, it needs batteries to operate and when they run out, you will need to replace them.
Optional but handy:
You can buy a portable air compressor to allow you to fill your tires anywhere and not just at a gas station’s air compressor kiosk. These vary from manual hand-operated or foot pumps to those you can plug into your car’s battery or a 12V power port. You will pay more for one with a built-in gauge, which can be helpful. If you are considering a purchase, look for one where you can put in the proper pressure and the unit will shut off when it reaches that number.
How to Check Pressure
You should check your tires’ pressure monthly or whenever there are changes in weather that could affect them.
Start with a “cold” tire which is when a vehicle has been parked for 3 hours or more, or one that has been driven less than a mile at moderate speed. Tires heat up when they’re driven and that will increase the air pressure, and you won’t get an accurate reading.
Remove the screw-off cap on your tire’s air valve. Put it someplace safe where you will not lose it.
Place your tire gauge over the valve and push it into the stem. If you hear air escaping, continue to press it in until that stops.
Check the reading on your tire gauge. Note that some gauges need to be in the tire’s valve for the reading; others may be removed.
If the reading matches the recommended pressure, screw the cap back on. If not, take the next steps to add air or take it out.
Repeat for each tire.
If you can access your spare, do it for that one as well. It will be helpful to have a spare ready to go should you need to change a tire.
How to Add Air
You can find air compressors at most gas stations, and they are often free or a minimal charge.
Park so the tire in need is closest to the machine so the cord will reach.
Read the directions on the compressor before paying (if there is a cost). Once you pay, you should hear the machine turn on.
Remove the screw-on cap on the tire valve. Put it somewhere safe.
Press the hose nozzle on the stem of the valve. You should see the tire inflating and the numbers on the air machine going up.
If you hear a hissing noise, you’re letting air out. Push the nozzle in to attach it properly.
Check the pressure with your gauge.
Repeat until you have the right number. Replace the cap.
If you had to drive a few miles to get to a gas station with air, your tires will be hotter than normal. Remember your base “cold tire” reading and calculate the difference between that and the ideal pressure. Add that amount. (For example, your tires needed to be 33 psi but were only at 31 psi in your driveway, you will want to add 2 psi.) Then, check again later after the tires have been sitting for 3 hours to make sure it’s the right amount.
How to Remove Air
You don’t need an air machine to let air out. You just need a flathead screwdriver.
Take the cap off the valve.
Press the end of the screwdriver into the center of the valve stem.
Hold it for a few seconds. Listen for air escaping.
Check the pressure and repeat as necessary.
Pressure Changes by Season
As the weather changes, you will notice corresponding changes in your tire pressure. That’s because air expands as it gets hotter, which raises the pressure. It contracts as it gets colder, which lowers it. In cold weather, tire pressure can decrease about 1 psi for every 10-degree drop in temperature. That’s why it’s important to check your tire pressure when the weather changes, in extreme heat and cold, and adjust as needed.
Note that your car’s tire pressure light activates when there’s a temperature change as well as a small leak. The light goes on when the pressure is about 25% below the recommended level.
A Word About Air vs. Nitrogen
When it comes to keeping your tires inflated, you have a choice: air or nitrogen. If you have nitrogen in your tires, you will need to revisit a nitrogen provider to fill your tires. You will not be able to fill them at air kiosks at a gas station.
Keeping the right tire pressure will help extend the life of your tires. Keeping your vehicle well maintained will help extend its life. Finally, protect it with the right insurance coverage. This will give you peace of mind for your journeys ahead. Safe travels.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
From traffic jams to reckless drivers, it can be stressful on the road. When you’re also juggling life’s daily demands, the stresses can leave you frazzled behind the wheel. Stressed driving not only affects your personal wellbeing, but it poses risks to road safety. Here’s how to bring back a sense of calm and control — and crush your daily commute.
How Stress Affects the Brain
Stress is the body’s reaction to potential threats. It affects your frontal lobe, where you set goals, make plans, and keep your emotions in control. It also impacts the hippocampus, which stores your memories. Importantly, stress causes a chemical reaction known as “fight or flight.” When you’re stuck in traffic or upset about being cut off, there’s often nowhere to go. That’s when your emotions can turn to road rage.
Driving While Stressed
Stress can cause mental and physical symptoms that affect not only how you feel but how you drive. Recognizing these symptoms can help you take steps to manage your stress.
Physical Signs of Stress
You may notice your heart beating faster or your palms getting sweaty. Those are common symptoms of stress. You also may feel muscle tension in your neck, shoulders and back. Biting nails, tapping fingers, and other repetitive motions also are indicators of stress. You may even get tension headaches or feel unusually tired after a short drive.
Stress often leaves you distracted. When you’re worrying about traffic, other drivers, or being late, you’re not focusing your attention fully on the road. Your concentration is reduced. You could have difficulty with decision-making and slower reaction times as a result. If you’re sitting in traffic and you pick up your cell phone to complain about the stress, that adds another level of distraction.
Irritability
When you are stressed, you may feel easily annoyed or angered by minor inconveniences. You start to engage in aggressive driving behaviors such as tailgating, speeding or frequent lane changes. This can escalate to emotions that are hard to control.
Tips to Reduce Your Stress While Driving
Stress may be unavoidable, but you can take steps that help you manage it. Follow these tips to reduce your stress behind the wheel.
Plan ahead. Know the route you’re taking and plan your journey in advance. Be aware of alternate routes should you encounter traffic or road closures. Bringing the kids along? Pack books, snacks, and games to keep them entertained so that they do not add stress to your trip.
Leave early. Allowing extra time for your journey can help you better handle the unexpected, such as traffic, weather, or detours. When you leave early, you are less likely to worry about being late.
Set your playlist. Research shows that listening to music can enhance immune system function and lower levels of the stress hormone cortisol. Create a mindful playlist and avoid news or any content that might stress you out. Sing along to your favorite tunes for a mood boost.
Adjust your posture. Improving your posture can increase oxygen flow, decrease tension in the neck and shoulders, and reduce physical discomfort. Adjust your seat and mirrors to maintain a comfortable and relaxed driving position.
Breathe. Inhaling through your nose and into your belly is a proven way to reduce stress. Deep breathing sends a calming message to your brain, helping you relax. If you’re feeling stressed, try this breathing exercise: breathe in for a count of 8, contract one muscle group (like your neck and shoulders), then exhale and relax. Repeat for muscle groups in your neck, shoulders, and back as needed.
Change your perspective. Managing your thoughts can help control your emotions. Instead of getting angry at a driver who cuts you off, think, “I’m glad no one got hurt.” Don’t let a stranger’s actions affect your mood.
Pull over if needed. If stress becomes overwhelming while driving, don’t risk it. Find a safe location to pull over and take a break until you feel calmer.
Stay fueled. Keep your car filled with gas to avoid the added stress of running low. When planning your trip, make sure you know when you plan to fuel up.
Maintain and insure your vehicle. Make sure your vehicle is well maintained so it is less likely to break down and leave you stranded. In addition, protect your vehicle with the right insurance coverage. This will give you peace of mind for your journeys ahead. Safe travels.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to education professionals, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
