It takes just about 30 seconds for a small fire to turn into a major blaze. That same fire can destroy your home in minutes. Spending some time to fireproof your home, inside and out, can help to protect it. Fireproofing can also buy you precious time if you need to escape your home and get to safety.
Whether it’s a fire that accidentally started in your home or a wildfire in your area that could affect you, the following guide lists ways to reduce the risks.
Inside Your Home
The kitchen is a common place for fires to start while we’re cooking.
Clean the grease and oil on your stovetop and around your stove. These oil deposits are fuel for a fire.
Avoid storing things above or around the stove that can catch fire, such as pot holders, paper towels, and wooden spoons. Make sure flammable cleaning chemicals are stored safely away, too.
Stay in the kitchen when you’re cooking. Don’t leave your home with the oven on.
If a fire occurs in the kitchen, cover the flames and remove it from the heat. Don’t douse it with water. That can cause an explosion of oil. See our blog for tips on how to prevent and handle cooking fires.
Electrical outlets can only handle a certain amount of power. Overloading them can lead to a fire.
Don’t overload outlets. Limit the use of extension cords. Don’t plug too many appliances into one outlet.
Unplug appliances (coffee maker, toaster) when not in use.
Plug large appliances directly into wall outlets, not into extension cords.
If you’re constantly tripping the breaker or blowing a fuse, you’re either overloading your outlets or you may have something wrong with your electrical system. Get it checked out.
Space heaters can sometimes spark a fire. Position them carefully.
Place your space heater on a hard non-flammable and level surface.
Keep space heaters at least 3 feet away from anything that can burn.
Avoid putting heater cords where they can be pinched by furniture, under rugs, or carpets.
Turn off the heater and unplug it when you leave the room or go to bed.
Pro Tip: Choose a space heater with an automatic shutoff safety switch if it is overheated or tipped over.
Dryers are filled with dust, fibers, and lint that is fuel for fires.
Clean the lint filter in your dryer before each use.
Check the air vent pipe at least once a year and remove built-up lint.
Clothes stained with chemicals or cooking oil should not be put into a hot dryer, even after a wash cycle. Use the lowest setting.
Install a smoke detector in each bedroom and in areas outside bedrooms. Make sure there is at least one on every floor.
Test batteries every month. Change batteries twice a year. Replace smoke alarms at least every 10 years.
Get a fire extinguisher and keep it in an easily accessible location. Make sure it is an ABC-rated extinguisher that is good for fires involving combustible materials, flammable liquids, and electrical equipment.
If you’re planning a home improvement project, consider fire doors and fire-resistant flooring.
Fire doors can hold flames and smoke back, giving you time to escape.
Synthetic and wool carpets spread fire. Fire-resistant carpets slow down the spread.
You can also treat your carpet with flame retardants.
Outside Your Home
Depending upon the material, roofs and siding can catch fire. Chimneys also can ignite.
You may not have a choice in the material of your roof. But if you do, choose fireproof options such as tile, metal, or concrete.
Similarly, choose materials like stucco or stone for siding. If you must use wood, paint it with a fire-resistant coating.
Embers can enter through openings. Cover soffit vents and gable end vents with 1/8-inch wire mesh.
If you have a chimney, get it professionally inspected and cleaned once a year. The buildup that sticks to the inner walls is flammable.
Clogged gutters filled with leaves, branches, and other debris are flammable.
Clean your gutters regularly and consider gutter guards to keep debris out.
Choose metal gutters rather than vinyl ones that can melt during a fire.
Windows can break when exposed to extreme heat.
Install dual pane window glass, which is thicker and can last longer than traditional glass in a fire. These windows are also energy-efficient and can save you money.
Windows are usually framed in wood, which can be a way for fire to enter your home. Instead, frame windows in metal.
Replace nylon window screens, which may melt, with metal screens.
Consider nonflammable shutters, which are similar to hurricane shutters.
When doing home improvement projects, choose materials that are fire-retardant.
Replace wood decks with tile, concrete, brick, or stone.
Use fire-resistant materials, when possible, with your projects. Examples include gypsum boards, perlite boards, calcium or sodium silicates, treated fibers (cotton, hemp, flax), treated lumber, brick, concrete, and cement.
Fire prevention starts in the yard. Create a border around your home that is fireproof.
Get rid of flammable vegetation and replace it if desired with fire-resistant plants. Examples include California lilac, ornamental strawberry, French lavender, California Fuchsia. These plants are high in moisture content.
Similarly, plant fire-resistant trees such as cherry, birch, and poplar.
Replace mulch with gravel. Mulch is highly flammable while gravel is not.
Consider paving with stone or concrete to create an additional barrier.
Trim trees near your house so that fiery branches will have fewer chances to drop on your roof.
Downed power lines are electrical fire hazards. If your trees are growing between the power lines, report them to your power company, which may come and trim them for you.
Water can be effective in slowing down a fire.
Invest in fire sprinklers which release water when they detect fire. (These are also available for the interior of the home.)
Wet down your deck, bushes, and grass if you are anticipating a wildfire danger.
Make sure you have home insurance that protects against damage caused by accidental fires and wildfires. The right insurance provides peace of mind in the event of a fire.
If you’d like to learn more, see our blog about fire zones and what they mean for your home.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
“Clean the gutters:” It’s one of those perennial to-do list items that never seem to get crossed off. One season runs into the next, and before you know it, winter has arrived and your gutters are still full of debris.
Unfortunately, that can wreak a lot of havoc on your house, from water and structural damage to pest problems and more. And those problems will bring repair and replacement costs that can easily be avoided.
Check out the 6 ways below that clogged gutters can imperil your home, and 6 tips at the bottom to get ahead of the problem.
Structural Damage
Clogged gutters cause water run-off and overflow, which can collect around your home’s foundation. Over time, that water can cause cracks in your foundation, which leads to huge repair costs. When ice dams form, excess water can also seep through your roof.
Damage to Gutter Components
When fascia boards – the long, straight boards running along the lower edge of your roof – are exposed to excess water, they can crack, warp and start shedding paint. If your gutters are weighted down with debris and/or frozen water, they can begin sagging. This can result in tearing and pulling away from the exterior walls, or even coming loose completely.
Interior Damage
Whether from ice dams or a clogged gutter that sends water running in all directions, your home interior is also at risk of damage. This can happen from water leaking underneath shingles and through the roof, affecting electrical systems, appliances, and furniture. Oftentimes, interior walls will show mold, leaks, and water stains, and cracks will appear on ceilings. Window and door frames can also warp and rot.
Ice Dams
These are a main culprit behind all the issues above because they force excess water away from the proper exit route (down the downspout), leaving it up to chance and gravity for water finding its way downhill. In addition, they also cause icicles, which – although picturesque – can injure people and pets, as well as damage your deck and roof.
Pests
A gutter full of leaves can harbor infestations of all kinds. Rodents love just about any dark, cozy place and can quickly start nesting and breeding. Before long, they may try to enter your home through the walls, under the roof, etc. Besides rodents, insects will quickly make a home in the decaying matter stuck in your gutters. This means mosquitoes, cockroaches, flies, and termites, all of which can also make inroads into your home. Finally, mold, parasites, mildew, and spores flourish in a damp gutter, posing a health risk to you and your family.
Avoidable Injuries
If you decide to tackle the gutters after winter has already arrived, you may be putting yourself at risk in trying to clean them. Icy and cold conditions make for poor ladder safety and the chances of injury increase. If you spot any structural damage or hard-to-remove ice dams, you may be tempted to fix it yourself, but at that point hiring a professional is much safer.
Gutter Cleaning Quick Tips:
The best time to clean is during autumn, after most of the season’s leaves have fallen (many of which will find a home in your gutters!). Here are 6 tips to get you started.
Use a safe and secure ladder, and practice ladder safety.
Rake debris and leaves off the roof before attacking gutters (be sure to wear rubber-soled shoes).
Wear safety eyewear and gloves.
Use a plastic gutter scooping tool.
Clear the downspouts.
Watch out for power lines.
Once fall gives way to winter, your window of opportunity for safely cleaning gutters closes until spring. Best to start early, before damage – and related repair costs – happen.
This article is furnished by California Casualty. We specialize in providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
There’s nothing like a refreshing dip in the pool on a hot summer day. That’s why a swimming pool can be a great investment for your property. However, pools come with their fair share of risks, which is why protecting them with the right insurance is so important.
Swimming pools are covered under your homeowner’s insurance. They are covered in two ways: (1) other structures or personal property coverage and (2) liability insurance. The first covers damage to the pool. The second covers injuries to guests—both invited and possibly trespassers.
Other Structures or Personal Property Coverage
If your pool is in the ground or installed permanently above the ground on your property, it is covered under Coverage B – Other Structures. This is an insurance term describing a detached structure on your property. Other structures include pools, fences, gazebos, sheds, etc. However, if your pool is above-ground but portable, it is considered part of your personal property and covered by Coverage C – Personal Property insurance.
Coverage B – Other Structures – insurance covers open perils. That means a loss is covered unless it’s excluded. Typical exclusions include flood, earthquake, or wear and tear.
Coverage C – Personal Property – insurance covers named perils. That means the loss is only covered if it is one of the 16 named perils (for example, fire, explosion, theft, etc.).
If a tree falls on your pool and damages it, your policy would help with repairs, minus your deductible, the amount you chose to pay out-of-pocket before insurance kicks in.
The coverage limit for other structures is generally set at 10% of your home’s coverage limit. That means if your home is insured for $200,000, the coverage limit for your pool would be $20,000. For an additional premium, you can add an endorsement for additional coverage: Other Structures – Increased Limits. You may wish to do so if your pool is worth more, such as if it has a deck, waterslide, diving board, or waterfall. (Note that some companies will not insure pools with slides and diving boards, as these can present additional risk.)
Portable pools are covered under personal property. Depending upon the personal property limit that you set for your policy, you will get reimbursed if your pool is damaged by a covered peril. If your home is insured for $200,000, and your personal property coverage is 50%, 25%, your policy will pay up to $100,000 for repairs for covered perils. Personal property coverage for homeowners is 50% or 75%; renters may choose the amount that they wish for Coverage C.
This coverage comes with stipulations. You need to shut off the water supply and drain all systems and appliances of water at the end of the season. The loss may not be covered if the pool’s plumbing freezes. Insurers do not cover loss of property caused by faulty, inadequate, or defective maintenance.
Liability Coverage
If someone is injured — or tragically dies — in your pool, your liability policy can help to cover expenses from medical bills to lawsuits. This doesn’t apply to you or the members of your household but potentially covers any invited guests or even uninvited strangers.
Typical homeowner’s policies include $100,000 for base liability coverage. You will want to increase to the highest limit available if you have a swimming pool Alternatively, you can purchase a personal umbrella policy for additional coverage. An umbrella policy kicks in when you’ve reached the limits of your homeowner’s policy.
An Attractive Nuisance
Attractive nuisance is a term used to describe anything that might attract children and present a potential danger to them. Swimming pools are classified as attractive nuisances. As a homeowner, and owner of a pool, you are responsible to secure your pool to keep it as safe as possible from curious kids—or anyone else. Under the law, you may be found liable for any incidents even if you didn’t give someone permission to be on your property or in the pool.
Install a fence around your pool and a locked gate to secure it.
Install a locking pool cover that will hold the weight of an adult.
Move the ladder away when your pool is not in use.
Install an alarm that alerts you when someone is in the pool.
Consider a security camera to help you monitor the pool.
Follow any local laws on pool construction and safety.
Replacement Cost vs. Actual Cash Value
If the pool is portable, it is eligible for replacement cost under Coverage C. If it is not portable, you will insure it for actual cash value (ACV). ACV is the amount the item is worth, minus depreciation for its age. In a loss for other structures such as a pool, you will not receive more than the amount required to repair or replace it.
Refer to your policy to know what is covered and what is not covered so that you aren’t surprised in the event of an injury or damage. Choosing the right insurance will help give you peace of mind as you enjoy your pool this summer.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
It’s time to break out the barbecue. July is National Grilling Month, a great time to host a backyard get-together!
Whether you prefer hot dogs or halibut, cheeseburgers, or charred veggies, everything tastes better on the grill. What’s even better than a mouthful of delicious BBQ? There’s no need to worry about a big mess, too, after you eat. Just clean the grill and you are good to go! Here are some of our favorite easy grill cleaning hacks to try all summer long.
1.Steam it! Use a handheld clothes steamer over your grill and watch it cut through grease. Then wipe it off. Don’t have a clothes steamer? Fill a metal container with boiling water. Place it inside your grill when it’s still hot. The resulting steam should loosen that stuck-on grease.
2. Use wet newspaper: When your grill is still warm, lay a sheet of wet newspaper over it. Then close the lid. Come back in a half hour and you’ll find a greasy, dirty piece of newspaper, which did much of the cleaning work for you. Simply finish it off with a good wipe. Repeat as needed.
3.Clean your grill with an onion: Cut a raw onion in half. Stick a BBQ fork into the rounded part and rub the cut side along the grill grates while they’re still hot. The onion’s juices will create steam and help to remove the bits of food residue.
4.Use leftover beer: If you have half a bottle or can of beer left, don’t throw it out. Pour it over a warm grill. Then scrub with a long-handled wire brush. A scrunched-up piece of aluminum foil works well, too, if you don’t have a brush. If you choose the foil, use tongs to move it around so you don’t burn your hands.
5.Spray it with vinegar: Fill a spray bottle with equal parts white vinegar and water. Spray the solution on a warm grill and leave it for 10 minutes. Then scrub it down. Vinegar is a natural cleaner that’s also food-safe.
6. Scour it with baking soda: Sprinkle some baking soda on the grill. Dissolve some more in water and make a soft paste. Then use a long-handled wire brush to apply the baking soda paste to the grill. Let it sit for 15 minutes. Then wipe it off with a dry cloth. Baking soda’s sandpaper action will have your grill sparkling before you know it.
7.Soak it in coffee: Coffee is naturally acidic and therefore great at loosening up caked-on dirt. So, brew a pot of cheap coffee and pour it into a large container. Then soak your grill grates and utensils for one hour. Rinse and dry the grates and utensils before replacing them.
8.Use an espresso machine cleaning solution: Espresso machines use special cleaning tablets and powders that work on grill parts. Add the tablet to hot water, immerse the grill parts, and let them soak. When the grime has loosened, scrub and rinse them clean.
9.Use your dishwasher: Some grill parts are small enough to fit into a dishwasher. This is an easy hack that will get those parts squeaky clean. For the best results, put them in when they are still warm (remember your pot holders).
10.Extreme temperatures: Fire up your gas grill and close the hood. Let it come to full temperature. Wait at least 30 minutes. Then turn off the heat and scrub it with a wire brush dipped in a bucket of soapy water. Disconnect and remove the tank and let the grill cool completely. Wipe as needed.
Other Grill Cleaning Tips
Don’t throw water directly on your grill. On charcoal grills, it will make a mess. On any hot grill, it could cause scalding steam to fly back up at you.
Do not lean over a warm grill while cleaning or you could be hit with that same burning steam.
If you use a wire brush to scrub your grill, be sure to remove any loose wire brush bristles. Otherwise, they can get in your food.
Before you use your grill, give it a good coating of sunflower or olive oil. It will help prevent food from sticking to it, and also protect against rust.
Practice fire safety at all times. Grilling is the most fun when it’s done safely.
Bon appetit!
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
You’re a proud pool owner – or a soon-to-be one. You know how important it is to keep your pool clean, safe, and ready to swim.
We’ve compiled a list of 10 common maintenance mistakes that pool owners make, and how you can avoid them. Use this as your guide to ensure that your pool is ready to enjoy all season long.
1. Don’t ignore your pool’s pH level.
The pH is a measure of how acidic or basic your water is. If your pool’s pH is too low, the water is acidic—which is good to keep away algae but which can damage pool equipment like your pump and filter, heater, vinyl liner, and chemical feeder. When the pH is too high, however, it limits the effectiveness of your chlorine, the chemical that kills pathogens—microorganisms and bacteria that could be present in your pool. Pool pH that is too high also can cause skin rashes. That’s why a balanced pH is important.
Do: Test your pH levels at least twice a week. Keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.8.
2. Don’t add chlorine—or try to shock your pool—on a hot day.
It’s less effective to add chlorine to the water on a hot day. When chlorine is exposed to sunlight, it forms ions that convert to a gas that releases into the atmosphere. That requires you to add more chlorine for the right effect. Shocking—or adding a chemical mixture with a high dose of chlorine—has a similar effect. While you may want to do a shock treatment that helps to get rid of chloramines that can irritate eyes and skin, daytime is not the right time to do it.
Do: Add chlorine when temperatures are cooler, such as during the evening. Shock your pool once a week at night.
Pro Tip: Don’t think a strong chlorine smell means your pool has too much chlorine. When some contaminants in your pool oxidize, they can give off the scent of chlorine. If you smell chlorine, test your pool’s chlorine level. If needed, add chlorine until the water gives a reading between 3 and 5 parts per million (ppm).
3. Don’t do a shock treatment through your skimmer or put the shock chemicals directly into your pool without diluting them first.
Combining pool shock and chlorine can create a deadly gas, which can explode. That’s why you never want to add a shock treatment to a filter system with an automatic chlorinator. Putting those chemicals together in a confined space can cause an explosion in your pool’s filter system. Pool owners also have been burned and severely injured by mishandling of these chemicals. In addition, you don’t want to add shock directly into your pool. Shock is a form of concentrated chlorine; it can bleach anything within contact. Always dissolve the chemical into a bucket full of water. That will ensure it’s more evenly dispersed and it will protect your pool walls and floor.
Pro Tip: When diluting shock, put water in the bucket first and then add the chemicals. Putting chemicals in first can cause them to splash back on your arms or face.
4. Don’t run the pool filter system less than 8 hours each day.
Your pool’s filter and pump push water in and out of the system, cleaning it of dirt and keeping pool chemicals mixed. While running it less may seem like a cost-saving measure, it’s not. Inadequate pool filtering leads to more expensive treatments to remove algae and critters in your pool. While the size of your pool does matter, for most pools, 8 hours should do the trick.
Do: Keep your pool filter running at least 8 hours a day so it can do its job.
5. Don’t forget to brush.
Regular vacuuming helps to clear your pool of debris. Regular brushing helps to get those problem spots like the waterline, steps, and stairs, and behind ladders, corners and crevices. This helps to keep algae and other unwanted substances under control.
Do: Use an extra wide, heavy-duty aluminum pool brush with curved edges. Brush every week or more often if your pool is often used.
6. Don’t try to fix an algae problem with an automatic pool cleaner.
A robot simply pushes debris and algae around, and up through a mesh bag where it can clog. In other words, if you’re using an automatic pool cleaner, you’re just spreading the problem around. You’re not removing it.
Do: Use a manual vacuum. Make sure you either remove the drain plug or switch your filter to waste.
7. Don’t forget to check your calcium level.
Calcium helps to protect concrete, plaster, fiberglass, and vinyl. However, too much calcium makes the water cloudy. Again, you have to strive for that perfect balance. The recommended range is 175 to 225 parts per million (ppm).
Do: Check your calcium levels and as needed, add some calcium hardness increaser to the water. Note if you’re using calcium hypochlorite shock, you’re already adding calcium when you do the shock treatment.
8. Don’t backwash your pool filter too often.
Debris builds up in your pool’s filter over time. This sediment eventually begins to thicken and after a while prevents water from flowing through the filter. That’s the time to backwash. You’ll know because the pressure will be close to 10 psi. However, you don’t want to backwash too often. It could lead to cloudy or murky water because you’re also washing away the bed of fine sediment that helps your filter clear the water.
Do: Backwash only when your filter’s pressure gauge is 10 PSI. As the sand in your filter ages, and pressure increases regardless of backwashing, it may be time to change the filter media.
9. Don’t neglect your pool’s water level.
If your water level is too high, you’ll get water on the deck and most likely backwash that pushes dirt and debris back into the pool. If it’s too low, your pool’s pump might start filtering air instead of water, which could damage it.
Do: Keep your pool’s water level at the right height for the day’s swimmers and evaporative impact.
10. Don’t forget to prepare the pool for your furry friends—and clean up afterward.
Dog owners love sharing their pool with their furry friends. Yet the average-sized dog can introduce more contaminants to your pool than the average person. This includes pet hair that can clog filters to natural oils and even dirt. All of this can change your pool’s chemical levels. It’s good to know however that chlorine is considered safe for dogs as long as it is the recommended amount.
Do: Brush your dog before swimming to reduce the amount of pet hair. Rinse your dog after swimming to reduce chlorine exposure. Make sure your dog is safe in the summer heat. Vacuum your pool after each pet use. Regularly clean your filter, too.
Finally, don’t forget to protect your pool with the right homeowner’s policy, and take steps to minimize its risk as an attractive nuisance. That will provide peace of mind for you and your family to enjoy your pool and outdoor recreation all season long.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
We love being outside in the summertime for a backyard barbecue or an evening gathering around the fire pit. Unfortunately, the bugs love it too. If you’re tired of itchy mosquitos, armies of ants, and other pesky pests, read on. We’ve got the answer for what bugs you!
Here are some of our favorite tips and tricks to keep backyard bugs away.
1. Start with scents.
Bugs hate strong smells of mint and citrus. They’re also not fond of some other scents. Here are some ways to use these smells against them.
Put mint-flavored mouthwash in a spray bottle and spray your tables, chairs, and patio perimeter.
Place a few drops of essential oils on cotton balls and place them around your entertaining area. Choose scents of peppermint, citrus, lavender, or eucalyptus.
Make fly-repelling sachets of potpourri using cloves and bay leaves.
Burn a citronella torch or candle. Citronella is made from bug repellant grasses and helps to mask the smell of carbon dioxide and human lactic acid, both of which attract some bugs.
2. Place your plants.
Some herbs and flowers are natural pest deterrents. Bringing them into your garden and around your entertaining areas can help keep bugs at bay. These plants are often bug-specific.
To protect against mosquitoes, try basil, catnip, lavender, citronella, lemon-scented geraniums, lemon thyme, marigold, and rosemary plants.
To ward off flies, try basil, catnip, and lavender plants.
For moths and fleas, use lavender.
Chrysanthemums help protect against roaches, ants, ticks, and fleas.
Garlic and rosemary plants can repel biting insects.
A chive and lemongrass garden can ward off other pests.
3. Mind your mulch.
Too much mulch gives cockroaches and ants the perfect home for nesting. You don’t want that too near your entertainment area or your home.
Keep mulch at least 12 inches from the foundation.
Consider replacing mulch with inorganic rock or gravel.
Do make sure to have some mulch, grass, or ground covering. Yellow jackets make their nests by tunneling into bare dirt.
4. Turn on the fan.
Fans work in two ways to keep mosquitos away. Mosquitos aren’t strong fliers and so the breeze can prevent them from getting close. Fans also help disperse carbon dioxide and other chemical cues that mosquitos use to locate their hosts.
Turn on the patio fan or bring a portable fan outside. Both will work. Set them on medium or high settings.
Oscillating fans may be even more effective, as they help to move the air in different directions.
Consider several fans blowing in different directions to cover your entertaining area.
5. Redo your outdoor lighting.
Bright white or bluish lights attract insects because they emit shorter wavelengths. Bulbs that burn hotter also attract their share of bugs. Switch your outdoor lighting to reduce the number of your nightly “visitors.”
Replace white light bulbs with longer wavelength colors like yellow ones. The orange or yellowish glow is less visible to some insects.
Replace your incandescent and halogen bulbs, which give off a lot of heat, for ones that don’t. LED and fluorescent bulbs emit much less heat than others with the same wattage.
Reduce the wattage. Rather than 100 watts, try 60. Dimmer bulbs are harder for insects to see.
Pro Tip: If you are using older LED bulbs, you will need to replace them. Early versions had a coating that gave off more heat than current models.
6. Address standing water.
Standing water is the perfect nursery for mosquitos, gnats, and other bugs. Make sure you don’t have any standing water on your property, or if you do, take steps to eliminate or reduce the risk.
Remove standing water from gutters and downspouts.
Keep kiddie pools, buckets, and watering cans empty when they are not in use.
Get a birdbath with running water to reduce the chance of mosquitoes breeding.
Treat standing water with mosquito dunk pellets. This will allow them to fly but they will be sterile and cannot reproduce.
7. Build a bat house.
Attracting the predators that eat bugs can help you naturally reduce the insect population. One small bat can eat up to 1,000 mosquitoes an hour, which is a great reason to buy or build a bat house.
Buy or build one that is at least 24 inches high by 16 inches wide.
Bats prefer to roost on buildings or concrete structures rather than trees. It helps protect them against their predators.
Mount the house at least 10 feet off the ground and 20-30 feet from the nearest tree if possible.
The location should have a nearby water source and at least 6 hours of daily sun.
8. Build a bug trap.
Commercial bug traps are available, but it’s easy to make your own from materials that you probably already have around the house. Put your bug trap outside a few hours before you entertain or anytime you want a bug-free area.
Start with a 2-liter soda bottle. Take off its cap and throw that away.
Measure about 4 inches from the top of the spout and mark that. Use that line to cut around the bottle so that it is now in 2 pieces.
Insert the spout inside the open top so it points back down to the bottom.
Tape the pieces together to seal them.
Fill with soda or a sweet liquid to attract bugs, bees, wasps, etc.
Pro Tip: Fill a small bowl of apple cider vinegar and mix in a few drops of dish detergent. The scent will attract fruit flies and the soap will create a barrier that prevents their escape.
9. Keep it clean.
Keeping your patio or deck clean will help deter bugs. That’s because any morsel of food or sticky substance can attract them.
Sweep any crumbs. Wipe away spilled liquid.
Make sure all your garbage cans and recycling bins have covers to prevent breeding flies. Move them away from your entertaining spots.
Fill a spray bottle with a mixture of one part hydrogen peroxide to two parts water. Spray your patio or deck surface and perimeter. Be careful not to mix this with food or drinks.
Ticks like to hide in tall grass so keep your grass mowed and maintain your lawn. Trim back bushes or tree branches that touch your home, and which help pests get inside.
This article is furnished by California Casualty, providing auto and home insurance to educators, law enforcement officers, firefighters, and nurses. Get a quote at 1.866.704.8614 or www.calcas.com.
